Champneys Tring, Berkhamsted - 5 bubbles

We loved a lot about this place when we first visited in 2006. We returned in 2007 to experience their new Thalassotherapy area and found the spa an impressive place following its major refurbishment in Spring 2007. Which is why Champneys Tring is now a Good Spa Guide 5-bubble spa.

Was it easy to book?

First impressions?

How did they welcome you?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

How did you feel afterwards?

What happens afterwards?

Long-term effects

Was it worth it?

What else could you have?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

Was it easy to book?

Yes. I was impressed to be able to book the treatments I wanted at the times I wanted at relatively short notice (the spa officially requires 14 days' notice to guarantee treatment bookings). The website isn't as user-friendly as it could be but, if you telephone, once you've got through the various voicemail options and attempts to divert you to the website, the main switchboard receptionists are well-informed and helpful.

First impressions?

The helipad. I always forget to bring something...

Once you enter the iron and gilt gates, you follow the drive up to the imposing original house. The grounds are impressive and there's a good feeling of space which, at 170 acres, I suppose there should be.

How did they welcome you?

We turned up at the main hotel reception and were met by a helpful receptionist who stopped what she was doing and walked us to the spa reception. She seemed genuinely friendly and welcoming, regaling us with facts about the house and grounds as we made the short trip through the building.

What happens next?

Someone from the spa reception handed us our welcome packs containing treatment information and times, then gave us a quick tour of the facilities. When we first visited in December 2006, the resort was in the final stages of a multi-million pound refurb. (See below for our July 2007 visit to the new Thalassotherapy area.)

Our welcome packs contained locker keys as well as treatment information and timings. On the back of the treatment time card was the name of a flower; this corresponded to a particular area of the spa waiting room in which we were instructed to wait to be collected for any treatments. The waiting room was a well-designed area (unlike that at Henlow) with curved seating; this creates different areas and prevents the room from feeling overcrowded. The décor departs from Champneys' traditional claret-and-cream palette and is light, fresh and subtly floral. There is also a private waiting area for Premier guests.

Which treatments did you have?

I had the Champneys anti-ageing collagen facial - a tall order for my neglected post-Christmas hide. I signed my husband up for the 85mph men's grooming experience.

What were the treatments like?

My Champneys anti-ageing collagen facial was very impressive. My therapist was friendly, informative and eager, and gave me the impression that she really enjoyed her job. The treatment started off with my therapist asking me about my skin and my "skincare routine". This pre-facial question always fills me with a sense of mild panic and shame as I certainly couldn't describe myself as having anything so committed as a "routine". Soap and a splash whenever I get a moment to myself, and an occasional wipe with the most hard-core toner on the market is my usual. Frowned upon by every beautician in the land (except, of course, they don't frown because that would give them wrinkles).

I took off my robe and lay face up (obviously) on the couch while my therapist placed a towel over me. The couch was very welcoming, helped by the fact that it had a heated back pad. The treatment started with my therapist removing my make-up with cleanser then cleansing the cleanser (!) with a foamy face wash and placing cooling eye pads on my eyelids.

Next came the interesting bit. I was introduced to "Steamy Boy": a dual-function machine used to brush (exfoliate) and steam my skin. I liked the fact that the brush actually felt like it was doing something. It was like the facial equivalent of having your teeth polished.

After this, my therapist applied an exfoliating enzyme peel to my face, placed collagen-infused pads on my eyes, and asked me to turn my head to one side for a steam bath. Steamy Boy returned to do his stuff for about five minutes while I concentrated on trying to lie still while being blasted with steam. The sensation made me feel rather claustrophobic to start with but I soon got used to it. The steam remained on for a few more minutes, during which my therapist informed me that she'd be staying in the room to write out some recommendations for my skin. I appreciated this information for two reasons: firstly, I didn't worry that I'd been abandoned; secondly, I knew she wasn't going to return to my treatment with hands smelling of cigarettes.

Next up was a shoulder, neck and face massage, which apparently involved a cleanser rather than the usual massage oil. The massage was soothing and the use of cleanser meant that my skin didn't feel heavy or greasy afterwards, which was a bonus.

This is where the cooling collagen mask was applied with its promise of age reduction and skin-plumping. Just when the novelty of having a multitude of products slathered on my face was starting to wear off (the treatment is 1 hour 25 minutes, after all), my therapist offered me the choice of a hand or foot massage. I opted for a foot massage which I found really soothing. I liked the fact that this treatment offered more than a straightforward facial. Finally, my therapist applied a "radiance boosting" moisturiser and eye serum, informed me that the treatment had reached its conclusion, and handed me my robe. She signed off by presenting me with a card with information on the products used. It came as no surprise to (cynical) me to learn that these were available to purchase in the shop and would be of great benefit to my skin. I know that some people enjoy buying products as part of the experience, but I find this approach a little hard-sell.

My husband's more macho-sounding 85mph treatment was booked to coincide with my own. The treatment consisted, according to the website, of a tailor-made choice of "skin buff facial, tension relief neck and shoulder massage, scalp massage, express manicure, express pedicure, eyebrow trim and tidy, nose and ear hair trim". It sounded like just the job.

This is his description of the treatment:

"My therapist came to collect me from the Orchid area of the spa reception, introduced herself and asked me whether I'd ever had a facial before. Once I'd recovered from the shock of having been booked in for a facial (it had been billed to me as "the 85mph treatment"), I nervously confessed that I hadn't, and she immediately reassured me that all male facial-virgins are apprehensive initially, but that once they've had one, they never look back. I must say, I was sceptical.

"The room was very large and, although more luxuriously decorated, reminded me slightly of a dental surgery. With swimming trunks kept firmly in place, I was instructed to get on the couch and relax. My therapist then asked me about my skin and whether I moisturised after shaving. I don't, and until this moment it had never occurred to me to do so. Having scrutinised my face briefly, my therapist informed me that my skin was slightly dry and assured me that the treatment would help remedy this.

"The first step was to have cleanser applied to my apprehensive face with cotton wool. It felt cool and relaxing. Maybe I could get into this. Next came another cleansing stage which allegedly had "radiance boosting" effects. Again, it was soothing and cooling and really made me feel like I was being pampered. This was followed by an exfoliating scrub involving a mechanical brush - I do love a good gadget - which made a slightly unnerving scraping sound against my 12 o'clock shadow. By this time, I was really starting to feel quite chilled-out and actually started to enjoy the whole facial experience, helped by my therapist who was confident, pleasantly chatty and very professional, telling me what she was doing as she went along.

"The next bit I'm going to have to wing a little as the relaxation benefit was so thorough that I fell asleep. My 40 winks caused some amusement to the therapist as apparently I'd already been snoring for five minutes when I announced that I was falling asleep.

"My drowsy state had been brought on by a neck, face and shoulder massage, designed to remove stress and tension. I love a good massage and was disappointed at having slept through my favourite bit. I woke up to the strokes of the face and eye masks being applied "to combat dehydration and dryness caused by regular shaving". The mask was left on for around 10 minutes, during which time my therapist filed my fingernails and gave me a mini pedicure. Respect for carrying out the latter without complaint as it was the first outing that my feet had had from trainers for quite some time. The effects of the manicure were slightly lost, however, as the treatment didn't actually involve cleaning my fingernails.

"The treatment came to an end with my therapist applying moisturiser to my face and dabbing cream on the bags under my eyes. This felt great, but Rome wasn't built in a day.

"Overall, the treatment was much more pleasurable than I'd ever expected a facial to be. The relaxation benefits of having someone lavish attention on your face for over an hour while you lie back and snooze should not be underestimated. And I now know why so many women apparently swear by facials. Not for beauty benefits, though, just for the excuse to lie back and be fussed over for an hour. As far as results are concerned, the treatment literature claims that "any man will leave the treatment looking refreshed and debonair". I can vouch for the refreshed, but as for the debonair bit... Maybe I need just one more...

How did you feel afterwards?

Me: Relaxed, relatively radiant and unusually confident to be seen without any make up.

My husband: Relieved (to have survived) and pleasantly surprised (that a facial was actually quite an enjoyable treatment).

What happens afterwards?

Up to you. We went straight for lunch but there's always the option of the relaxation room. A rather underwhelming room consisting of six loungers, a carved wooden screen and some calming music.

Lunch was a self-service buffet lunch consisting of soup (spicy squash) or melon to start, followed by a healthy, but rather unadventurous, choice of salad items and several hot food options (paella, a plain chicken dish, aubergines with - presumably low-fat - cheese and what looked like some kind of meat stew). The emphasis was definitely on healthy rather than gourmet but was pleasant enough. It was a robed lunch which gave the feeling of being in a traditional health farm. This was further emphasised with the availability of plates with portion guides on them.

The dessert was poached pineapple which was pleasant OK but, in our opinion, would have benefited from a dollop of double cream or ice cream. I did request a "less healthy option". The waiter smirked and returned with some frozen yoghurt which, although still healthy, did taste slightly less virtuous.

Long-term effects

Me: Softer-feeling skin and a commitment to drinking more water and getting more sleep (oh, and of course taking a more responsible attitude towards my daily cleansing routine).

Husband: converted to facials (to the extent that I even caught him massaging the bags under his eyes!)

Was it worth it?

Yes, we had a very relaxing day and the treatments were of a very good standard. I would have felt short-changed, though, if I'd have gone for heat treatments (sauna, Jacuzzi and so on) as until the thalassotherapy area opens these facilities are lacking.

What else could you have?

As well as all the standard treatments that you would expect to find at one of the larger UK spas (facials, massages, floats and wraps, manicures), there also some more functional treatments on offer such as cellulite/colon therapy, chiropody, postural analysis and nutritional testing. Brands used include La Prairie, Elemis and of course Champneys' own products. (I defy anyone to visit Champneys and emerge oblivious to the fact that they have their own product range!)

There are a number of day and residential packages available ranging from a Luxury Day to a seven-night residential package. Prices for a day visit start at around £90 (without treatments). Both day and residential guests can take part in the daily activities which run from dawn until dusk and range from an early-morning walk, aqua classes, tai chi and aerobics to boot camp circuit. There is an additional charge for some classes and some require pre-registration.

The general facilities include a well-equipped gym and a glass-roofed indoor swimming pool. This is light and airy and, at 25 metres, enables the keener swimmer to notch up some lengths. There's also a smart new mosaic-tiled laconium next to the female changing area. Relaxing by the pool is not really encouraged at Tring due to the limited number of loungers available.

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

That there was no full-fat option in the restaurant. I'd have had a bigger breakfast.

Any special features?

The newly refurbished bedrooms in the original house have been imaginatively furnished and individually styled. There is also an impressive and spacious suite complete with plasma TV and a great view of the grounds if you really want to splash out.

Who do you think would like it?

Anyone who appreciates good treatments. Fans of more traditional health farms. People who are serious about adopting a healthier life style or losing weight, and c-list celebrity spotters.

Why did you give the spa this rating?

We gave Champneys Tring 5 bubbles because the treatments are first class, there is a wide range of facilities and the overall standards are good.

See more on how we rate the spas

Would you go again?

Yes - and indeed I returned to Champneys Tring in July 2007 to check out their new Thalassotherapy area:

Having seen the development stripped back to its foundations during my last visit, the smart new thalassotherapy area is an impressive transformation. The Thalasso pool replaces the old Butterfly Pool, and overlooks the gardens and new outdoor Jacuzzi. The style of the pool area is classic modern: tiled and subtly lit, with a large glass wall to the outside. The pool itself has six stations, ranging from underwater jets to massage fountain and jet loungers. The idea is that Thalassotherapy is booked as a dedicated treatment, with up to six people per group who rotate, spending five minutes at each station. It's a good idea to have limited numbers here, as it wouldn't work if the pool was too busy, but it does mean that there's a cost attached to this as it's billed as a treatment (£24 for 25 mins).

The idea behind thalassotherapy is that the massaging effects of the various jets improve circulation and target aches and pains, while the mineral-enriched water penetrates the skin to help detoxify your system.

I joined three other spa-goers to sample this new treatment and see if it delivered on its promises.

We met in the Thalasso reception area, which is separate from the main treatment reception and were greeted by the therapist who was instructing our session (she didn't actually actually get in but gave instructions from the side in the same way an aqua aerobics intructor does).

We were then asked to take a quick shower before entering the pool, and choose one of the six stations at which to start the treatment.

I started off in one corner of the pool with the multi-level underwater jets with holes at different heights to target different parts of the body; starting at the calves, and working up the body as I went along. The feeling was quite pleasant, giving my skin a slight pummelling effect. Next up came the waterfall: a strong horizontal fountain that falls heavily on your shoulders giving the effect of a pounding massage. This felt really good and effective. I was quite reluctant to move on to the next station, a kind of jet booth. This part of the treatment was similar to the first, with jets contained within a semi-circular area on which you rest your arms and shoulders to support your submerged body. This was perfectly pleasant, but not particularly exciting.

The fourth station was fun: a furiously bubbly partially-submerged chrome bed, like a sun lounger in a Jacuzzi. The sensation was very much like that of being in a hot tub, but with the challenge of staying on the bed and not rising up to the surface with the bubbles.

Last up was a submerged seat, again with jets. This also proved quite a challenge to remain seated until the therapist/instructor divulged her tip of bending your knees up to help you sit firm. With all five stations visited, the therapist asked each of us to pick one to repeat for an extra 5 minutes. I made my way back to the shoulder fountain as I had found this the most effective and enjoyable. The four of us then made our way back to the changing rooms next to the Thalassotherapy area and compared notes. The mother and daughter had both really enjoyed the therapy and were busily planning their next activity - there's a lot of this at Champneys as there's so much to do and, for day guests particularly, it's hard to fit everything in. The fourth participant, a woman in her 50s with arthritis, also enjoyed the treatment and felt it was a good choice for someone with restricted mobility, but I couldn't help thinking that it would have been easier for her if the therapist had actually got into the pool with her as the bubble bed in particular was difficult to mount unaided.

Overall, I found the thalassotherapy quite relaxing and enjoyable but wasn't convinced of its claimed detox or circulatory benefits... until I looked in a mirror in the evening and noticed a healthy glow in my cheeks that is usually absent.

Dining: Dinner was served in the main restaurant, which I entered feeling slightly apprehensive, and very hungry. I know that Champneys operate a "healthy eating policy" so my apprehension was based on the expectation that the food would all be overly healthy, and therefore not very appetising or satisfying. Happily, my concerns proved to be largely unfounded. We were given a menu which included several appetising options, including vegetable filo tart, leek and potato soup and lemon-marinated prawns for starters, with tuna steak, chicken supreme and vegetable curry for the main course. I opted for the filo tart and tuna steak. The tart was tasty, if a little light on the filo, and the tuna was fresh, interestingly spiced, and sufficiently filling. Selecting the fruit option for dessert, I emerged satiated and with my preconception of worthy "health farm" food rather reconsidered.

The restaurant is large, light and airy and has a communal table for guests who are dining on their own. I spoke to a couple of the single guests who said that they loved the fact that they could meet new people and didn't have to eat alone.

An alternative eatery is the modern Terrace Bar that offers freshly made sandwiches and smoothies.

Accommodation: My room, Room 11 ,was beautiful; a double aspect Premier Room in the mansion building with modern and luxuriously styled furnishings and a smart new bathroom complete with soft-close toilet seat. The room has double doors with a small balcony, overlooking the croquet lawn and grounds. With trees and lawns on two sides, the view added to the sense of luxury and relaxation and indulged my fantasy of being a princess for a day.

I also had a look at some of the more modern Garden Rooms and, although smaller and less attractive architecturally, these have simple, modern interiors and offer outside space in the form of a first-floor balcony or ground-floor terrace.

Summary: Champneys Tring is an impressive place following its major refurbishment in Spring 2007. The facilities and grounds are extensive and well maintained, and there's a feeling of genuine friendliness that filters through from reception staff to the waiters and therapists. It still has a health-farm feel, so if you're looking for an all-round indulgent experience, you might want to bring your own chocolate cake.

On the negative side, I did feel part of a brand experience: everywhere you look, there seems to be a Champneys logo, whether it's the beauty products in the shop or an advert for the new ready meal range.

We visited Champneys Tring in December 2006 and revisited in July 2007




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See also:

* Details of Champneys Tring

* Our Spa Spies review Champneys products

* Treatments for men

* Facials

* Thalassotherapy