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Thermae Bath Spa, Bath - 4 bubbles
Sybaritic Spy was one of the first to test the waters at Thermae Bath Spa before its opening in August 2006. Thermae invited her back in 2008 for a weekday Watsu session, which left our Spy light headed and floating on air. And very glad that she'd avoided the weekend crowds.
First impressions?
How did they welcome you?
Which treatments did you have?
What were the treatments like?
How did you feel afterwards?
Was it worth it?
What else could you have?
Any special features?
Who do you think would like it?
Why did you give the spa this rating?
First impressions?
Bath is the only place in the UK that has natural hot springs. In all the other traditional spa towns, the spa waters are cold. In Bath, the waters come out of the ground so hot that they have to cool them down slightly before you can bathe in them. For the Romans -- missing the sunshine and spas of their Italian home -- Bath must have been a wonderful find.
The waters and pools: The Cross Bath (in a separate building just across the road from the main spa) is where the Bath spring rises to the surface, and where the Celts worshipped from about 500 BC. The hot spring was believed to be a gateway to the underworld guarded by the Goddess Sul. When the Romans came along, they added their own goddess of healing -- Minerva -- and built a spa around the spring. The Cross Bath is a small building, open to the sky, with tall walls making a quiet, secret place. The pool here is small, and the hot water flows out of the ground in a circular fountain held in a polished metal bowl. It's worth coming in here just to experience the stillness and quiet of what is still a sacred site. But you can also bathe in the waters, and there is a chair lift to assist people into and out of the pool.
The main building -- the New Royal Bath -- is where ancient and modern meet. The "glass cube" designs work very well, linking the old and the new, and getting plenty of light into all the levels. The main Minerva pool is a reasonable size, with four huge pillars that rise up from the floor of the pool and spread out to support the ceiling like the branches of huge trees. On the floor above are the steam rooms. The four pillars continue up onto this floor, each becoming the centre of the one of the amazing circular glass steam rooms. In the centre of the room is a huge water-and-light installation that allows several people to shower at one time.
Go on up to the top floor for the most dramatic innovation: the rooftop pool that allows visitors to swim while looking out across the city and to the surrounding hills. The water is wonderfully warm and silky smooth, and the pool is deep enough and wide enough to swim, or you can just sit on the bubble seats.
The treatment rooms: The 20 treatment rooms are spacious and well equipped. They offer a wide range of treatments, many making use of the natural thermal waters, including Watsu, Vichy Showers, Hot Stone therapy and Pantai Luar (a Balinese exfoliating massage that uses herbs and hot oils).
How did they welcome you?
I registered at the reception desk, where a member of staff issued me with a high-tech armband that operated my locker and timed me in and out of the spa. All very efficient. There was no queue, but the rails to organise long queues showed us what it could be like on a busier day...
Which treatments did you have?
I had Thermae's signature treatment, Watsu (50 minutes, £65).
What were the treatments like?
Watsu is a combination of water-based exercise, floatation and massage. It's often described as Shiatsu in water. There was hollow laughter at our Good Spa Guide weekly nail-filing session when I said that I was having Watsu. They all know that my control freakery is extreme. The idea that I would lie back for 50 minutes and let go, while someone held me close and stretched and moved my body in a pool of warm water seemed quite laughable. This, combined with the fact that I have a perforated ear drum and hate getting water in my ears, did make me a bit nervous. But I went equipped with Vaseline and cotton wool balls (which make very effective ear plugs) and an open mind.
My Watsu session took place in Thermae's rather wonderful original small pool in the main building. This is where Regency dandies came to take the cure. The pool was filled with warm silky water and surrounded by mellow stone walls. The glass ceiling above let the sunlight stream in. I followed the steps down into the bath-warm water and then stepped out into the sunshine.
My therapist, Kerri-Ann fitted me with floats around my calf muscles, and then held me, with my head tucked onto her shoulder, and my legs held over her other arm. I felt rather like a babe in arms! I lay back in the chest-deep warm water, and let my head dip back so the water covered my ears. I closed my eyes.
The 50-minute treatment was amazing. Kerri-Ann gently pulled and pushed me though the water, turning and twisting my body. She found the acupressure points that would allow the energy channels to flow within my body. I could certainly feel similar sensations to those I experience when I have acupuncture.
The combination of warm water, being gently held and moved, and the sun and shadow on my face was the nearest I think I will ever get to being in the womb. I felt secure, warm and supported. I drifted emotionally as well as physically. At the end of the session, Kerri-Ann took me to the water's edge, leant my head against the wall and gently let go. I stood and leant against the warm stone. I couldn't bear to open my eyes. I didn't want this lovely relaxed time to end! When I did finally open my eyes, Kerri-Ann was nearby and gently talked to me. She brought me water to drink and helped me out of the pool.
I was so spaced out, I had to go and lie down for a while in the relaxation area. This long, narrow room is just off the main pool but the glass walls keep the noise down. There's a skylight in the ceiling, and this makes the area light and airy. It's very peaceful. You can relax on well-cushioned wooden steamer chairs, each supplied with a blanket in case you get cold. There are water and herbal teas on offer, and plenty of magazines.
How did you feel afterwards?
I felt light and floaty for a while. I realised that my slightly creaky joints were freer and my usually tense shoulder and back muscles were very soft and loose. I felt as if I had experienced an hour's vigorous massage. More surprisingly, when I looked in the mirror, I realised that it looked like I had had a facial as well. My frown lines had gone and my skin was glowing.
Was it worth it?
My time at Thermae Bath Spa was a real bargain. For £22 you get two hours in the spa, or for £32 you get four hours. You can use all the pools and the steam rooms. Treatment prices are competitive. My Watsu session was £65. You pay twice that at grander spas. Local residents get a discount on spa entry prices.
What else could you have?
Thermae's facials and body treatments use the organic Pevonia range. You could choose a Luxury Caviar Facial or a Plantomer seaweed facial. There's a Yummy Tummy "facial" for pregnant bellies! Massages include Pantai Luar, Shiatsu, and Aroma Couples massage. There's a good range of dry floatations, hot stone therapy, a Vichy Shower, and a Kraxen Stove - a traditional Alpine hay chamber.
Spa packages start at £65 for the Entrée spa day which includes a two-hour spa session and a back, neck and shoulders massage and a reviver facial, or a back, neck and shoulders massage and a foot massage.
If you book for treatments, you'll be given a robe and towel. If you simply book to use the pools, you need to bring your own or hire them from the spa.
Local residents get a discount on spa entry prices. Many hotels in Bath offer good value mid-week packages that include a day at Thermae -- these are worth looking out for.
Any special features?
It's relaxing to lounge in the rooftop pool in the sunshine. In cold weather, the steam will rise around you. The baths are open in the evenings so this would be a fascinating place to come and swim after dark.
Who do you think would like it?
If you want hushed luxury and anonymity, you won't find it here. But if you want a spa experience at a rock-bottom price, then Thermae Bath Spa is the place for you. It's not full of young slim women showing off their bikinis. There's a wide age range; quite a lot of older people were there to take the waters in the traditional manner. The whole spa is well fitted out for anyone with mobility problems with hoists on the pools, wide walkways and lifts. There's a very mixed clientele at Thermae -- it's a real people's spa.
Why did you give the spa this rating?
We gave Thermae Bath Spa 4 bubbles. This is one of those modern buildings that is both stunning and pleasing. The spa has been designed around the water, and the pools and steam rooms work very well.
In the centre of the city, the site is quite small, and keeping within the "footprint" of the old spa has obviously presented challenges. Sensibly, most of the space has been given over to the pools, but that does mean that the changing area is small and dark. It looks disappointingly like the changing area at a municipal swimming pool. There are no toilets or showers on the same floor as the changing room -- you have to go up or down one floor. While there are lifts, they are very small.
You can't beat the heritage of the site, the wonderful natural spring waters and the way they have built a spa around them. The spa is also very popular, affordable and can get busy. So it's vital to choose the day and time of your visit carefully. Go mid-week and go early, and you may well have a 5-bubble experience. Go at the weekend or the middle of the day, and the sheer numbers of people will drop the experience to 4 bubbles.
See more on how we rate the spas
We visited Thermae Bath Spa in May 2008
See also:
* Contact Details for Thermae Bath Spa
* Water-based massage
* Floatation
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