KuBu, Henley-on-Thames - 5 bubbles

A Good Spa Guide reviewer was invited to KuBu in Henley to sample their Signature Ritual. She didn't want to leave...

First impressions?

How did they welcome you?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

How did you feel afterwards?

What happens afterwards?

Was it worth it?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

First impressions?

I was hot and a bit bothered when I arrived in Henley. It was one of those days you really don't want to sit in your car on the M25, which is what I'd done to get there. The thought of a river walk watching the rowers seemed more appealing than the Waitrose carpark. I needed a breeze and some rest, and didn't feel I was in the right part of town to get it.

So, KuBu was a surprise. It's housed in a large, white, listed building that looks like an old bank, right in the middle of a narrow but very busy shopping street, a short walk from the river. Cool, green glass signs outside, and a big, black door give a private-club feel. But as I looked at the building from across the road, I could see twinkling lights upstairs through the big windows...

As soon as you go into KuBu, you feel a million miles away from the traffic. Before I'd even got up the wide, carpeted stairs ahead of me, I started smiling. The light, natural scent of the aromatherapy oils was enough to make me feel instantly relaxed. Walking up the stairs to be met by Eileen, my therapist, who was waiting at the top, it felt like I was walking up to a little spa heaven. At the top of the stairs, I passed beneath a wooden sculpture of what I think were Balinese dancers, and found myself in reception.

The reception area is fragrant and large, with dark wooden floors. Lavere products, KuBu oils, scented candles and bath bombs sit around the desk and on shelves behind it. Before I do anything else, I buy a ylang ylang and patchouli candle, concerned I'll be too relaxed to remember later on.

How did they welcome you?

I was welcomed with a smile and plenty of information. Eileen, my therapist, asked me to fill in a questionnaire - two pages, and more detailed than usual, including my skincare and exercise routine, whether there was any part of my body I was concerned about, and whether I wanted to feel relaxed or rejuvenated.

She asked me to choose from four aromatherapy oils which would set the fragrance and mood for my treatment, explaining that they were all 100 per cent natural, organic oils made specially for KuBu in Bali. The German Lavere products, too, that KuBu uses in facials, are also organic. Eileen explained their treatment-focused, holistic approach, and commitment to using safe, natural, and organic products. This is what I like to hear.

It was also really encouraging, and unusual, to know that the therapists at KuBu have to have regular treatments themselves so that they "stay in touch" with the customer experience. I've not heard of this before, surprisingly, at any other spa I've been to. It's a good sign.

What happens next?

Eileen showed me through the relaxation room to the changing room beyond, and to my locker - more of a closet than a locker. The small changing room felt like an exclusive boudoir. My closet had simple carved wooden doors and, inside, my fluffy white robe and slippers were waiting. Eileen explained that I could change behind the lilac damask curtains and wooden screen at the back of the room. She left me alone, and I found that behind each screen was a mirror with a carved-wooden surround, a good hairdryer, Lavere deodorants (for men and women), various other lotions, and towels. I got changed and went into the relaxation room.

By the time I got to the relaxation room, I already felt pretty good. Not too dimly lit, the windows are billowed lightly with cool-coloured fabrics; there are Balinese artworks and statues around. Eileen brought me a glass of water, and I climbed up onto the cushion-strewn, four-poster day bed. The music was modern, gentle. Again, that lovely smell of the scented candles.

One of the most classy things about Kubu is that whilst it has a strong and authentic Balinese theme, it's not ever in danger of being a theme park. They haven't gone into overkill.

For example, you wouldn't find all the therapists wearing sarongs or other traditional Balinese dress. Sasha and Eileen, the husband and wife team who own and have run KuBu since its opening in November 2004, are more confident, and more relaxed than that. There are just enough touches to make it feel special, without it ever being overdone. Clearly a lot of thought has gone into the decoration and they have got it spot on.

Eileen came and found me and took me through the yoga studio up to the next floor where there are three, very spacious, wood-floored treatment rooms.

The yoga studio

You enter through carved wooden doors that were originally the doors of a Balinese temple. The studio, as you can see from the pictures, has wooden floors and big windows. KuBu offers Iyengar and Ashtanga yoga, either in classes or on a one-to-one basis. I noticed a large, carved-surround mirror at one end, which would be perfect for making sure you got your positions just right. There is some noise from the street but it's barely audible.

The treatment rooms

I went into one of the biggest treatments rooms I've ever been in. A large, original fireplace at one end, and a large table to one side - the only other things in the room are a large wooden storage cupboard, a huge bath with screen, and the massage table. No fancy, elevating massage bed, but a large wooden table with a comfortable mattress/mat on top. Loose, hanging fabric covered the windows, allowing just a little light to come through onto the wooden floors.

There are three treatment rooms, painted in warm, calming colours. It occurred to me that they could have partitioned to make five or six treatment rooms up here - perhaps the fact that the building is listed didn't permit it - but they only have three. Their size and the decoration makes them feel luxurious.

Which treatments did you have?

I had a KuBu Signature Ritual. This promised two hours and 15 minutes featuring a full-body Balinese massage, a gentle scrub and a bath. You can choose whether you want to have an extended massage or a slightly shorter one and the scrub. I chose the scrub.

Eileen talked me through the treatment so that I was confident about what would be happening. She also asked if there were any parts of my body I would like her to focus on or watch out for, any tender muscles or sore limbs. Then I lay down on the massage table and she began.

What were the treatments like?

The Balinese Massage

I have wanted a Balinese Massage ever since I first read about it. Featuring both firm thumb, palm and forearm pressure, long, luxurious strokes and essential oils, it sounded like every kind of massage you could ever want. And so it proved.

I began the massage lying on my back. As it was a hot day, my therapist offered me a batiqued cloth rather than a towel, so that I wouldn't be too hot. This was thoughtful and appreciated, and is an example of the thought that went into my whole treatment.

The massage started with a head and face massage, without oils. The face massage was particularly unusual; firm but comfortable. Massage gets the blood and lymph flowing to the surface and is an important part of maintaining good skin, so I was pleased with this element of facial care.

My therapist went on to do each part of my body in turn. She used what felt like warmed oil, firm pressure, long strokes and gentle pulls on legs, arms, toes, fingers. I love hand massage and it featured early, so I was happy. I think it was around the time she massaged my stomach that I drifted off into very deep relaxation. Having your stomach massaged is unusual. I trained in Thai massage many years ago and that features pressure on the stomach which can be quite uncomfortable. But the Balinese massage was warm oils and sweeping strokes. I was enjoying it so much that I wasn't even too self-conscious about how much stomach I had to be massaged.

The leg, foot and calf massage was also particularly good.

My therapist had asked me to let her know about how much pressure I wanted. I like firm massage but where my muscles are a bit tender, in my laptop shoulders, I asked her to be gentler and she was.

The scrub

This involved the Balinese Boreh element of the treatment - a freshly-mixed frangipani paste; not gritty, or salty but it was exfoliating. This was massaged rather than scrubbed into my skin, which was good, as in my semi-conscious state I think I'd have been a bit shocked by anything too vigorous.

As I lay there, coated and relaxed, I heard Eileen run the bath.

The bath

Well, I was supposed to lie, relaxed, coated in my paste, while Eileen prepared some herbal tea and chocolates to accompany my bath. (I had chosen herbal tea over champagne - almost a biological impossibility for me - but I did have to drive afterwards.) But I was a bit disorientated by then, and the bath looked so welcoming, so I forgot that she'd be coming back. I got in, strewing some rose petals as I did so. Fortunately, when Eileen came back in, I was shielded by the screen, which I think spared both our blushes. She set my tray of chocolates and tea just within my reach, and then left me for 20 minutes to have my bath, reassuring me that I could have longer if I wanted, but that she'd knock on the door to let me know how time was passing. This really was good; it just makes you nervous otherwise that you've been in too long, and usually makes you rush through.

It was just the right temperature and the oils smelled lovely. There were four Lavere products on the bath side - shampoo, conditioner, milch-und-honig bath and shower gel, and an "Over 30" (I am, you know, just...) 3-in1 cleanser (make-up remover, cleanser and toner), that you rubbed in and washed off. I definitely want to get some more of that!

On the fireplace were more products in the "Over-30" range: body lotion, and something hoping to rub away my cellulite. But I know my limits, so I stuck to the body lotion.

I've always been a bit sceptical about having a bath as a treatment. "I can have a bath at home!" But this was a great bath, and in such a beautiful room. I sat there wishing it was my beautiful bathroom... one with matching towels, dark wooden floors, elegant artwork, a mortar and pestle and co-ordinating organic products, instead of... Well, let's just say that's not much like my actual bathroom.

When Eileen knocked after 20 minutes, I was already getting dry and had emptied and rinsed out the bath. (I know you're probably supposed to just leave it because it's your time, but I can't help it!)

How did you feel afterwards?

Absolutely gorgeous. Fresh, clean, glowing and relaxed, with a pleased smile on my face I couldn't wipe off. I smelled divine, and my skin was soft and smooth.

What happens afterwards?

I dried my hair in the changing room, got dressed, chatted a while with Eileen and then drifted off for a walk by the river before getting back to my beloved M25.

Was it worth it?

Absolutely. You could pay more and receive less at many other spas.

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

To leave enough time to park. Henley is a bit of a residents' permit and short-term parking nightmare with a lot of one-way streets. Phone in advance and the staff will suggest good options and directions for you.

Any special features?

There are many:
* the calm, meditative atmosphere

* the Balinese theme: furniture, fabric, artwork and colours

* the attention to every detail: rolled, fluffy white flannels to dry your hands; organic oils; rose petals; handmade chocolates; just the right products for your age-range and skin type left in the room for you to use; not an inch of flaking paint, anywhere

* the treatments and products: unusual, authentic, luxurious, expertly executed

* the links to a local acupuncturist, nutritionist and yoga teacher, and the opportunity to book yoga holidays in Thailand through the spa

* the location: what better way to end your treatment than a walk along the river and a light meal in any one of Henley's restaurants?

Who do you think would like it?

Someone who's looking for a private, exclusive retreat, rather than a busy spa atmosphere. I think it would be a great place for mums who really deserve some proper "me-time", in the real sense of the word.

Why did you give the spa this rating?

We gave KuBu 5 bubbles because we hadn't got any more at our disposal.

KuBu is an exceptional treatment-room spa. The cleanliness, ambience, customer-service, treatment-focus, decoration and attention to detail are all spot on.

See more on how we rate the spas

Would you go again?

I will go again. It may have spoiled me for other spas, so I'll have to!


This spa review is due an update



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See also:

* Details of KuBu

* Scrubs and body polish

* Baths

* Treatments for men