Review of Balmoral Spa at the Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh

Balmoral Spa at the Balmoral Hotel, Edinburgh - 4 bubbles

An ideal spa to visit alone or with a friend, get yourself relaxed, then wander out ready for the central Edinburgh shopping action. We recommend making a day of it -- but book ahead for this popular spa. And watch out for towel rationing.

First impressions?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

How did you feel afterwards?

What happens afterwards?

Long-term effects

Was it worth it?

What else could you have?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

First impressions?

The Balmoral is a very grand hotel on Princes Street, right in the centre of the Edinburgh action. The Balmoral Hotel's décor is a beautiful mixture of traditional and modern: marble and wood panelling, lightened by clever contemporary furniture and soft furnishings.

The spa is in the basement. This is usually a recipe for darkness but the Balmoral Spa is kept brighter by the glass roof in the pool area. It creates a very effective light-well in the centre of what would otherwise be a gloomy spa. The soft creams and beiges used in the design lighten the tone, and there's plenty of light wood, blue- and green-tiled areas, and blue glass. Therapists are dressed in trendy black.

What happens next?

A therapist showed me to the changing room which has a spacious blue seating area in the middle of the room. Plenty of room to sit down and get undressed without blocking the way for other people. There's a curtained-off changing area and two showers, and a large mirror with two hairdryers and a set of hair straighteners.

There is also a large clock: a thoughtful touch since my watch is usually buried in my changing bag. Even if you are lazing at a spa, there may be a treatment to get to on time! I took a quick shower, donned my long, fluffy-hooded robe, and headed off for the pool.

The pool is a reasonable size -- 15 metres -- and was temptingly empty early in the morning. Scottish spa-goers obviously favour a later start. Beside the pool area is a juice bar with teas, coffee, water and juices on offer, and a seating area where you can wait for your therapist.

I took a dip in the pool. I tried out the sauna (too hot for me!) and the large steam room, before cooling off under the showers between these two rooms. The curved shower area is large. I expected a jolly good whoosh of water but sadly it was more like a trickle.

I went to wait for my therapist in the seating area. I filled in a health form. Five minutes later, someone came over to apologise for the delay. There was a huddle going on in the reception area as they tried to work out which products they could use as I have an allergy. Eventually they sorted it out and my therapist led me to one of the five treatment rooms. It was pleasant and spacious, with a large, well-padded treatment table.

Which treatments did you have?

I had the Kamala Hot Herbal Treatment for Face and Body (£95, 90 minutes), the Balmoral Spa's signature treatment.

We'd been invited back to the Balmoral as it had been a couple of years since we visited and the treatment we tried last time had been replaced on the new spa menu. So I was looking forward to this new experience.

What were the treatments like?

As the Kamala Hot Herbal Treatment is Thai-inspired, my therapist began by washing my hands and feet. It's supposed to wash away any negative feelings. I'm not sure about that, but the ritual is certainly pleasant. She offered me a scented towel to wash my hands with. I dipped my feet in a bamboo bowl filled with warm water and rose petals. She knelt to wash my feet. I could get used to this! I love having my feet massaged and this was almost as good.

I lay face down on the couch. The treatment started with the therapist using firm holding movements, beginning at my feet and working up my body. She laid a hot herb cushion across my back while she focused on my legs and feet.

As usual with Thai massage, there was much lifting and shaking of the limbs and some stretching before the therapist began the massage proper. It felt great and I enjoyed just letting go. She massaged my body with hot herb poultices. They are very hot, but they are placed on the skin for just a moment, so they warm but don't burn. Halfway through the treatment, I turned over onto my back and the therapist placed another hot herb cushion across my stomach.

She then helped me to sit up, as she worked more hot pads over my shoulders and back.

The therapist signalled the end of the treatment with a Thai greeting that means "thank you for being my guest".

How did you feel afterwards?

I felt light and very relaxed. The combination of warmth and all that stretching and massage made me feel great.

What happens afterwards?

The therapist gave me my herb poultice to take home! She told me I could use it in my bath or hang it amongst my clothes. She took me along to the relaxation room, where I had some herbal tea. I had the room to myself. There were five wooden loungers with cushions and blankets so you could snuggle down, and plenty of classy magazines. The air conditioning was a bit noisy but there was good, gentle music playing which distracted from it.

Long-term effects

I felt pretty relaxed and spaced out for a day or so after the treatment. I used the poultice in my bath a day or two later and it reminded me of how nice my treatment was.

Was it worth it?

The best value here is to book a spa day, or at least two treatments. With a spa day, you get lunch in Hadrian's, the hotel brassiere. I had an excellent summery meal of asparagus soup and poached fillet of salmon with new potatoes. I felt virtuously healthy as I sat eating in the bright sunny room.

If you book just one treatment, you have to pay to use the pool and other facilities. But spend over £60 pounds and you get to use all the facilities. So it's worth going the whole hog, really. But do be warned, you have to book 4-6 weeks ahead for a spa day at the weekend.

What else could you have?

ESPA facials, wraps and massages. Hot-stone therapy, scrubs and treatments for men. Organic Ytsara facials, Thai massage, hand and foot rituals. "Nangfa, Angel Bliss" massage for children. Jessica pedicures and manicures.

There's a good range of luxurious-sounding spa packages, including the Men's Total Zen, Maternal Bliss and Royal Thai Experience. The Botanic Garden package combines a herbal poultice and warm oil massage with a pampering hand treatment.

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

That the hotel does such a brilliant afternoon tea in the Palm Court - a very grand room with a harp. I would have saved myself up for it!

Also, ask for two towels at Reception - you want to wash your hair as well, don't you?

Any special features?

The Ytsara treatments are very luxurious. The products are organic, and contain ingredients grown in Thailand.

If you're going to the Balmoral to stay, they have Spa bedrooms that are near the Spa lift for easy access.

Who do you think would like it?

Anyone not too keen on traditional massage will find the Kamala Hot Herbal Treatment very gentle and relaxing. The Balmoral would be a great spa to meet a friend at on a mid-week morning, have a lovely lunch and then hit the shopping hot spots of Edinburgh.

Why did you give the spa this rating?

The Spa at the Balmoral earns 4 bubbles. The layout of the spa is quite awkward and it's hard to find your way around. The changing rooms are a long way from the treatment and relaxation rooms and you have to cross the pool area to get to them. The staff are good at helping. They are obviously used to people getting lost!

While the glass roof over the pool brings some light in, you are definitely in a basement spa. The spa is quite small and even though they limit numbers at weekends, I would imagine that it must feel quite crowded.

The robes are lovely but they are a bit mean with their towels. I was told to come back if I needed another towel. When I was ready to shower I did just that, expecting to get a second towel. But my damp one was taken away from me and a dry one handed over. When I asked why they didn't have extra towels around, I was told that the health club members would use them. So I went off to shower and wash my hair with my one dry towel in hand.

However, the spa treatments are excellent: unusual and well delivered. The staff are all very well trained and helpful, and the lunchtime food was excellent. So, overall, 4 bubbles.

See more on how we rate the spas