The Isle of Eriska, Oban - 4 bubbles
The ESPA spa in this traditional, luxury hotel provides a delightful element to your Scottish stay, whether you're having an active adventure or a serene storybook sojourn. All islands have their own magic, and Eriska is no exception.
First impressions?
How did they welcome you?
What happens next?
Which treatments did you have?
What were the treatments like?
How did you feel afterwards?
What happens afterwards?
Long-term effects
Was it worth it?
What else could you have?
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
Any special features?
Who do you think would like it?
Why did you give the spa this rating?
Would you go again?
First impressions?
The Isle of Eriska is a private island just north of Oban in Scotland. It's reached by a single track with passing places, then you trundle over a wooden bridge that separates the island from the mainland. From this point, the track is marked with stones at each side - a welcome reminder that you're going somewhere, and not just into wilder wilderness.
Eventually, you come out of the trees and see the main building that is the "big house" of this hotel. Solid in granite and sandstone, and surrounded by green lawns, the hotel looked very baronial and serene. The house was built in 1884, but has been much modernised, very sympathetically, since.
How did they welcome you?
Efficiently and politely, taking me on a tour of the house and pointing out where the badgers might come and visit later, on the coloured tiles outside one of the sitting rooms. The hall is particularly impressive, with oak panelling, stained-glass windows, and a rich red carpet.
My room, Tanera (all the rooms are named after islands), was up two flights of stairs and surprisingly and refreshingly modern after the traditional decor downstairs. Bright, with crisp white linen and striking decorated cushions on the bed, and soothing views of trees. There was a separate area for sitting and watching TV, with chunky purple chairs. The bathroom was smart and white, with all the Molton Brown products a girl needs, and plenty of bright white towels.
What happens next?
I made the short walk across the car park to the Stables Spa, which has its own entrance path through floral gardens. Jodie, the spa manager, welcomed me, and showed me round the building. The pool and changing areas are on the ground floor, with the treatment rooms and relaxation area upstairs.
The changing rooms: There are plenty of wooden lockers, with plenty of space for your belongings, with beige tiles underfoot. There was also a small wicker basket containing navy towels. I soon found my way to the swimming pool.
The pool: At 17 metres, the blue-mosaic pool is large enough to get a good swim in, which I did. There are graduated steps to the pool, too. I got into the Jacuzzi and failed to make it produce any bubbles at all. Later, Jodie showed me the panel on the other side of the Jacuzzi that contained all the necessary instructions.
At the poolside, there is a small beige-and-gold steam room and wooden-benched sauna, both nicely hot. A jug of iced water nearby helped me cool down. There were four white plastic loungers by the poolside, and all had a good view onto the surrounding gardens through the floor-to-ceiling windows that make up the wall. You can sit outside in warm weather, on a decking area next to the garden.
I then washed the chlorine off in one of the six walk-in shower rooms in the changing rooms. There was Molton Brown shampoo and body wash in each, but sadly no conditioner. And no power showers, either.
There are wooden benches to leave your clothes on as you change, and a bit of a musty smell, which some burning aromatherapy oil couldn't quite fight. In an undoubted attempt to be fresh and green, automatic ventilation begins when you open a shower door, and the light comes on. But it sometimes happens when you just walk past the door, too, which is a bit eerie.
There is a hairdryer attached to the wall and a swimming-costume spinner. I couldn't see any clock in the changing room, and I'd left my phone back in my bedroom, so, worried I might be late, I dried off and changed into the robe in my locker. This was a soft white waffle -- very nice.
Which treatments did you have?
I had the ESPA holistic back, face and scalp treatment (85 minutes, £75).
What were the treatments like?
Lovely. Jodie took me through to a darkened treatment room and explained what the treatment would involve. This treatment includes a facial with acupressure, and a cleansing back exfoliation, along with an aromatherapy massage.
As usual with an ESPA treatment, you choose with a scent test which of the various oils and unguents your therapist will use in your treatment. The idea behind the test is that your body will tell you what it needs. As usual, I chose the floral spafresh, as the essential-oil mix of rose, neroli, tangerine and geranium seems to be exactly what my body always needs. I find the scent both uplifting and de-stressing. I also chose the Soothing body oil (frankincense and myrrh) and the Regenerating face oil (jasmine, plus more rose and neroli). I'll say this for ESPA treatments: they're always an olfactory dream.
I lay face down on the treatment table, which was both wide enough and comfortable. Jodie started the treatment on my back, gently but effectively. I was always warm enough. (I worry about this when having back treatments!) The exfoliant was tingly, and Jodie removed it with warm flannels. Massage on my knotted-up shoulders and neck is always welcome: and that's what I got. Jodie's touch was firm enough to feel that the pressure was doing some good. The facial was also thorough. Some of the towels used to remove products from my skin felt a little rough, but I very much enjoyed the massage element of the facial. While my face mask was on Jodie did lots and lots of scalp massage. As head massage is perhaps my most favourite treatment, I relaxed very, very deeply. Perfect. The treatment simply flew by!
How did you feel afterwards?
Quite energised. But sorry to have missed tea!
What happens afterwards?
I could have done some relaxing in the relaxation room, where there were a couple of loungers and chairs, and some ESPA products to test. However, it was a gorgeous day, and the opportunities to explore an island don't come up on our itinerary very often, so I decided on a walk. Jodie gave me a map of the island to guide me.
I walked to the pier and the beach, and couldn't see a single other soul. The air felt fresh and the sea sparkled. I didn't see any deer or otters, but I did see lots of oystercatchers and a heron.
Later, I had dinner in the conservatory, where the food was absolutely delicious. I can still taste my Roquefort mousseline with figs and herbs. I also enjoyed fresh sea bass. For dessert, I was very pleased to try a Welsh rarebit. The heather honey panna cotta, fresh fruit salad and strawberry and pepper sorbet all looked delicious, but I am not blessed with a taste for sweet things. Some traditional Welsh rarebit, though, perfectly done: yes, please! Dinner is silver service, so the atmosphere is quite formal, but the staff were pleasant and attentive.
I slid to sleep in between soft and smooth bedsheets so early, I missed any visiting badgers.
Long-term effects
I felt very relaxed by the treatment. The other long-term effect of Eriska is that it made me want to return!
Was it worth it?
The treatment was well carried out and was great value.
What else could you have?
The Stables Spa offers a range of ESPA face and body treatments, including treatments for men. You can try a salt-and-oil scrub, a detoxifying algae wrap, and a variety of massages, including an oriental head massage, hot-stone massage or deep-tissue massage. (This last one is "not for the faint-hearted", it says in the treatment menu!) There are also a couple of spa-day programmes designed for detoxifying or stress reduction.
You can finish with Jessica manicures and pedicures, or waxing and tinting beauty therapies.
There's also a small gym, with one walker, cross-trainer, bike and weights.
Outside, there is a golf course on the island, and plenty of opportunities for walks, tennis or croquet, so you could have an active a stay as you wished.
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
That I'd love the Isle of Eriska so much. I wish I'd booked in for at least a week.
You can also book to stay in one of the "spa suites", which turn out to be cottages around the stables. You can be very private here with your own Jacuzzi, and the pool is just steps away.
Any special features?
The views from the relaxation room. There's also a small terrace so you can sit outside on sunny days and have even more views.
If you're staying, joy of joy, they bring you up a tray of tea at your appointed time in the morning so you don't have to stagger down to breakfast unrefreshed. And the tea comes in a proper silver teapot with a proper strainer and proper jug of milk, too.
Who do you think would like it?
The Stables Spa is friendly, open and accessible to almost everyone.
The hotel itself is comfortable, but quite formal at dinner, so be prepared for that. Otherwise, you do get the feeling that this is a much-loved family-run hotel where guests return year after year. The customer service was excellent and everyone friendly.
Anyone looking for peace and tranquillity will love it on this island.
Why did you give the spa this rating?
We gave The Stables Spa 4 bubbles. It's an appealing spa in a rural location that offers professional treatments at reasonable prices. The hotel is lovely and luxurious, but the spa could do with some softer touches. There is a bit of a health-club feel to the pool and changing-room area, which feel quite basic and functional rather than "spa". The ventilator in the swimming pool can be quite noisy; again, not a "spa" atmosphere.
The separate treatment areas are well kept, the customer service excellent and the treatments professional, so the spa scores highly on all those counts.
See more on how we rate the spas.
Would you go again?
Oh, yes. Eriska is not somewhere I might have ventured if I hadn't been invited to stay, but I am so glad I did, and so glad I drew the invitation out of the spa hat!
We visited The Stables Spa in May 2010
See also:
* Contact details for the Isle of Eriska
* Our Spa Spies review ESPA products
* Is there a right order for treatments?




