Review of Pennyhill Park Hotel and The Spa, Bagshot

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Pennyhill Park Hotel and The Spa, Bagshot - 5 bubbles

There was fighting in the Good Spa Jacuzzi when Pennyhill Park invited us to sample their delights again. On our first visit, we were impressed. We were impressed on this visit, too. Pennyhill offers a definite 5-bubble experience. The facilities are fantastic, the treatments tremendous, and the customer service spot-on. Pricy, but you're worth it.

Was it easy to book?

First impressions?

How did they welcome you?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

What happens afterwards?

Long-term effects

Was it worth it?

What else could you have?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

Was it easy to book?

I found the website easy to navigate when it came to finding out about the treatments on offer and the facilities. In advance, they also sent me a treatment menu and their "How to Spa" booklet. This provides you with an overview of all the treatments on offer, and tells you the kind of things it's good to know beforehand, such as the fact that it's customary to wear a swimsuit at all times. There's also a map; this gives you a great sense of the space and delights to come, usefully telling you the temperatures of each of the pools so there are no surprises. You can phone in advance if you want recommendations and advice on different treatments. This level of welcome and information in advance is as useful as it is unusual. An excellent start!

First impressions?

You drive through the gates, and meander across the landscaped grounds of the 120-acre estate, to find that the hotel has valet parking. Mmm... we're already relaxing... A helpful young man in uniform carried our suitcases up to our room in a jiffy. The hotel is a 19th-century, ivy-clad mansion with terraces, landscaped gardens and lilyponds. Inside, it is a warren of corridors. Our room, Aintree (they're all named after racecourses) was large and comfortable, with an enormous four-poster bed. In the bathroom was Pennyhill's own range of spa products. From our window, we could see the spa, which is in a new, purpose-built separate building. In the late afternoon, the outside pools looked especially inviting. We were off to explore...

How did they welcome you?

The footman pointed the way to the spa ("Just past the Ferrari"). The spa receptionist checked us in promptly and efficiently, issued us with a locker key, and showed us around.

What happens next?

They suggest that you arrive at least 90 minutes before any treatment to enjoy what they describe as "the most advanced Thermal Sequencing experience available in the UK". That's a good idea, as you have 45,000 square feet of this spa to explore. That's why they give you a map.

The changing rooms and showers are enormous and replete with towels, water, and various lotions. The lockers have either the names of elements or wines. Each locker contains a robe and slippers, plus towel, laundry bag, clothes brush and hangers. There are also sofas and fruit in the changing rooms, should you wish to recover after the exertions of spa-ing.

I started in the large and well-equipped gym. I liked the fact that as soon as I went in, someone came over and asked if I need introducing to any of the equipment. As a keen gym-goer, I had met most of the machines before, but I appreciated the offer. Each of the machines has its own TV screen. You can borrow a set of headphones, so you can cycle away watching whatever takes your fancy. The gym is bright, with windows overlooking the lawns, so you can just admire the scenery instead. There are cycles, cross-country skiers, running machines, mats and Swiss balls, and free weights. There's also a sprung-floor studio next to the gym for classes - and there's a good range of these on offer, including Pilates, aqua-Pilates, several forms of yoga, and body conditioning. I particularly appreciated the fact that water and fruit were freely available in the gym, along with an abundance of towels.

After my workout, I changed into my swimming costume and robe and went downstairs. To the right are the swimming pools, to the left is "Thermal Heaven", where the heat and ice rooms are.

Swimming first. Pennyhill has not one, not two, but eight pools. The jewel in its crown is the ballroom pool, a 25-metre pool large enough for some serious swimming. The pool is ozone-treated, so no chlorine unpleasantness. If you like to swim on your back, it's charming because there's underwater music. Very relaxing. There's also a Jacuzzi if you need a break from all that splashing about. From the ballroom pool, you can reach the hot tubs in the garden, and in the garden there's also an outdoor pool. On an autumn day, it was lovely to swim in sunshine.

In comparison to the fire-and-ice facilities on offer at many spas, Thermal Heaven is huge: eleven rooms of varying temperatures, humidity and scents. Some rooms are for both men and women, including a tepidarium (heated ceramic couches for relaxing and reading), the Schnapps Room (a steam room), ice room (crushed ice for when you need to cool down) and a laconium (mild warmth through heated seats, walls and floor). In addition, there are specific areas for women and men.

I was able to enjoy an aromatic steam room, and a herbal sauna, freshening up afterwards in the "Experience showers". Here I had to choose my experience, from Tropical to Highland Mist water. Great fun.

My partner, who had not consulted his map, and who did not realise that the very abstract squiggle meaning "women only" meant "women only", also managed to enjoy these facilities for a glorious 15 minutes before someone came in and pointed out the deficiencies in his vision. So off he went to the "men only" sauna, steam room and laconium. (Much more "manly", apparently.)

Throughout, there is a feeling of space. The steam rooms are as hot as advertised and would comfortably fit several people (don't you hate it when you open the door to a steam room, discover there are two people in there already and it feels crowded before you even sit down?). There are plenty of towels and water around.

Deeply relaxed, we had lunch in Café Themis, which has a casual atmosphere: people lounge around in their bathrobes tucking into salads, smoothies, and home-made soup. And chocolate cake. This spa has a definite self-indulgent side. The menu offers organic food and drink and the help-yourself salad buffet is delicious. You can relax reading newspapers and magazines, and there was a mix of groups of friends and solitary spa-goers doing just that.

When it's time for your treatment, you walk along to the treatment reception area; your therapist collects you from there. They have 21 therapy rooms, so there's unlikely to be a crush. And there are double treatment rooms if you want a treatment with a partner or friend. The treatment rooms are large, too, by spa standards.

Which treatments did you have?

I had a Li'Tya Marta Kodo (90 minutes, £125) described in the brochure as "a rhythmic body massage that is inspired by traditional Australian aboriginal techniques which will tone, re-align energy flows and enhance mind and body balance".

What were the treatments like?

Once in the treatment room, Charlotte, my therapist, offered me a seat then began to confidently talk through the elements and philosophy of the treatment. She produced three bottles of massage oil and instructed me to close my eyes while she wafted each scent under my nose. She asked which one I felt drawn to/preferred. I liked all three: the first was citrus, the second unmistakeably contained ylang ylang, and the third was a floral-scented oil. I chose the second, though would have been happy to be slathered in any of the three.

Charlotte offered me a pair of disposable knickers, which I declined, prepared to risk getting oil on my M&S basics. Charlotte left the room while I got undressed and face-down onto the couch. After a couple of minutes, Charlotte returned to start the "smudging ceremony", which involved her burning a small bowl of myrtle and lime leaves. She waved the bowl under the breathing hole, instructing me to take a few deep breaths. The idea, apparently, is to remove any negative energy in the room. I wasn't aware that there had been any, but it's always good to be sure.

The massage began without any oil, with Charlotte gently pulling, pressing and lightly pinching the skin on my back. She then sprinkled on some oil and continued, with soothing, medium-firm movements. Her movements were slow and deliberate, clearly following some sort of routine and in time with the background ambient music.

Having thoroughly massaged my back and shoulders, Charlotte continued the flowing strokes along my arms, then added a couple of stretches, as she'd told me she would, gently pulling my arms away from my body and moving my arms behind my back. The stretching felt particularly good and effective.

A good 45 minutes later, Charlotte asked me to turn onto my back while she held up the towel. I wriggled down the bed a little so that my head was supported. Charlotte then raised the leg section of the bed to maximise my comfort, checking that I was happy with the temperature. The same process was repeated on my front: legs, feet, arms, hands and upper chest with the same soothing stroking and stretching movements.

Charlotte then checked that I was fine with having oil put in my hair, which I was if it meant the promise of a top-quality head massage, which it did. Charlotte massaged my scalp using standard and also rubbing techniques. The treatment came to end with Charlotte electronically lowering my legs, raising my back, and increasing the light. Overall, a dreamy, highly soothing treatment that was interesting enough to prevent me from falling asleep at any point.

What happens afterwards?

Charlotte led me to the octagonal sensory room, where I sank into one of the welcoming and supremely comfortable "gel beds". I could easily have gone to sleep for a couple of hours as I was the only person in this large room and it was so comfortable and peaceful.

I could have gone back to the pools and thermal heaven but I was happy to relax, shower - shampoo, conditioners and body lotion are all provided - and get ready for dinner. We ate in The Latymer, where the food is excellent, and the focus in on seasonal produce from around Surrey. There are rich touches to the dishes, such as foie gras, but the menu also offers fresh fish and salads, and a dazzling selection of desserts.

Long-term effects

I definitely felt chilled and de-stressed by the Marta Kodo massage, and I slowed my pace for a while afterwards. I also felt that I'd been physically loosened up by the stretching elements of the treatment.

Was it worth it?

At £125 for 90 minutes, this treatment price is definitely towards the top end in terms of cost-per-minute of massage. However, the massage was more interesting than most so I stayed awake to appreciate every move. The environment was perfect and the therapist excellent. So, yes, I consider it worth it as a one-off treat.

Even if you're staying at the hotel, there's an extra charge for use of the spa (although this is set against the cost of any treatments you take). However, this policy keeps the spa exclusive. It is never crowded and you can always make the most of what's on offer, unwinding in your own time and at your own pace. Given the quality and quantity of the facilities on offer, and the quality of the treatments, I felt it was more than worth it.

What else could you have?

The treatments include hot stone therapy, a serail ritual for two, face and body treatments for mums-to-be, Li'Tya treatments which incorporate aboriginal massage techniques, and there are several treatments specifically for men. You can also have beauty treatments such as manicures, complementary therapies such as Reiki and reflexology, and there is a hair salon. The spa's signature treatment is "Exclusively Spa": exfoliation, an organic facial, scalp massage and moisturising.

For total blissed-outness, we'd recommend trying The Dreaming: three hours of indulgence using Li'Tya products, which use ingredients from native Australian plants and flowers.

Outside the spa, there's a 9-hole golf-course, a tennis court, a jogging trail and croquet. You can also indulge in archery and clay-pigeon shooting.

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

How much we'd enjoy it. We'd have arrived even earlier on the first day to make the most of Thermal Heaven and the outdoor pools. The spa opens at 6.30am for the really keen.

Any special features?

Thermal Heaven. The outdoor hydro-pools. The friendliness and attentiveness of the staff. The spa's own-brand of products does not contain any mineral oils, synthetic perfumes or colourings, or other harsh chemicals, so that's a special feature, too.

Who do you think would like it?

Anyone who wants to feel completely relaxed and never bored. There are enough facilities (pools, heat and steam rooms, the gym) to get blissed out and stay blissed out.

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Pennyhill Park is five-star luxury and 5 bubbles for the experience. It's not just the quality of the facilities, it's the fact that everyone is so willing to help, to look after you, and to generally make your stay a pleasant one.

See more on how we rate the spas

Would you go again?

I didn't want to leave.

We visited Pennyhill Park in August 2009