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Midland Spa, Morecambe - 3 bubbles
The art-deco dream that is the Midland Hotel in Morecambe has a new spa. Except it isn't really a spa. There's no pool, steam room or sauna. There are some very nice treatment rooms, though, as Single Spy discovered when she was invited to visit.
First impressions?
How did they welcome you?
What happens next?
Which treatments did you have?
What were the treatments like?
How did you feel afterwards?
What happens afterwards?
Was it worth it?
What else could you have?
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
Any special features?
Who do you think would like it?
Why did you give the spa this rating?
Would you go again?
First impressions?
The once sadly neglected Midland Hotel has undergone a makeover to restore it to its original 1933 modernist grandeur, and looks splendidly impressive, both outside and in. The building stands imposingly at the southern end of the promenade, and the stone sea-horses on the front of the white hotel welcome you with a haughty sense of their own magnificence. The quite small glass entrance door opens up to a fantastically spacious main reception area, under a large cupola, topped with a mural of Triton blowing his horn (accompanied by some rather saucy mermaids). The windows on the far side of the reception look out to the flat sands of the bay and the crags of Cumbria beyond.
The transformation was named by English Heritage as one of the 20 best conservation-led development schemes in England in 2008. The restoration hasn't meant a faithful recreation of a long-gone decade, however. There are some decidedly modern twists, such as the weirdly shaped oversize bat-winged turquoise chairs in the reception area, which pick out the turquoise mosaics in the restored stone floor, and the hot-pink bar.
So far, so very retro-modern.
How did they welcome you?
Hugely politely. On the other side of the black-glass reception desk, my booking was soon found. I'd have been happy if the staff had been less efficient as it's not every day you can check into a hotel which has an an original Eric Gill carving behind the reception desk.
A young man carried my case up the large, spiral, cantilevered stairs with their red carpet, and past huge black-and-white photographs of Morecambe Bay in rather grander times gone by. The hotel staff had thoughtfully put me in a first-floor room very close to the spa but I went down and asked to change this because I wanted the next room along which had a balcony! It was only a little balcony, but the times in my life when I am privileged enough to go to Morecambe and look out at the sands are limited, so I wanted to do so in unimpeded glory. Everyone obliged very politely; the helpful young man even made sure I had a chair to sit in on the balcony. I couldn't fault the staff throughout my visit for their helpfulness.
The room was not huge but it was comfortable and warm, and beautifully finished with dark woods and splashes of red. It had everything you generally look for in a hotel room including large TV (I think this was supposed to swivel, but I never got the hang of the swiveling art), free internet access, free mineral water, and tea-making facilities. Plus something that looked like a tree from an Eastern European stage set. The cunningly designed bathroom managed to pack a lot into its allocated space (you'll see what I mean when you discover where they have hidden the loo), was clean, and full of Molton Brown things you could wash yourself with. There was also a robe and slippers and plenty of white, fluffy towels.
What happens next?
I went down the service stairs to the spa - signposted from the bedroom corridor. The back stairs are quite functional, but you can also reach the spa via an accessible entrance from the front of the hotel, useful if you have mobility problems.
At the spa, I was welcomed very efficiently and was given a client record card to fill in. My invitation had mentioned "use of spa" so I had, with naive faith, packed my swimming costume and flip-flops. I happened to notice, though, now that I was actually there, that the spa was rather small, had no scent of chlorine, and no gentle sounds of lapping water. I asked a therapist if there was, in fact, a swimming pool. "Oh, no," she said. "People often come down from the hotel with their swimming costumes and ask where the pool is." "Do they really?" I said, deftly hiding all evidence of my swimming optimism and thinking that if you call a place a spa, people will naturally expect to find a pool in it.
My next thought was: Wow! This is pink! The floor is bright pink throughout the spa. I asked if this put some men off, being in such a pink environment, but was assured that was not the case. Everywhere was clean and shiny, with lots of bold turquoise stripes, curvy mirrors and frosted glass.
As the spa is in the basement of the hotel, there is no natural light, but it is nevertheless, a bright environment; it feels more like a place to get things done in than to relax.
Which treatments did you have?
I had the Body Massage (£37 for 1 hour).
What were the treatments like?
The massage was very pleasant. I took everything off down to underwear and laid down on quite a narrow treatment table under a towel. The room was warm, and the therapist dimmed the lights before beginning.
My therapist had a really good touch and knew exactly which areas of tension to target. Her fingers found all my aches and pains, especially around my shoulders, and gently soothed them away. I drifted...
How did you feel afterwards?
Nice and dreamy. Just a shame there wasn't a dimly lit relaxation room to melt into and prolong the experience. Or a pool to lounge by. This is one of the reasons the spa at the Midland feels functional rather than tranquil.
What happens afterwards?
I went for a brisk walk around Morecambe, which has benefited from huge public investment in recent years. Rarely have I seen so much sculpture in so short a radius. The townsfolk have managed to cram poetry into the stones of their shopping precinct, useful geographical guides into their promenade, and still find room for an affable statue of a dancing Eric Morecambe by the children's playground. There's also a great bookshop you can lose hours in, just a little walk along the prom. The area round The Midland is still quite dilapidated, though, so let's hope that the resurgence of The Midland Hotel has a ripple effect on the rest of the town.
I also made sure I sat on the balcony and looked at the sands, having made such a fuss about it. However, not everyone will like the balconies as they are not private, with the balcony space running across several rooms, and very small. You couldn't sunbathe peacefully there. Even on the days you could actually sunbathe in Morecambe.
The next morning, I had breakfast in the restaurant, which is like a curved conservatory as it follows the arc of the building and has large windows that look out onto the bay. There is a buffet with cereals and juices, then you can order hot food from the waiting staff as well - from fry-ups to healthier choices, and old-fashioned kippers, which I had and liked.
Was it worth it?
The spa at the Midland Hotel offers affordable, professional treatments. It isn't a spa in the sense that any of us seasoned Spies would call it a spa, as it's much more like a beauty salon. However, it offers very good treatment value for money.
What else could you have?
The Midland Spa offers various massages, including aromatherapy, hot stone, reflexology and Indian head massage. You can try Clarins and Organic Elements facials and body treatments, including the anti-ageing special which uses cashew nut oil and is a bargain at £45 for 1 hour and 30 minutes, or, at the other end of the time spectrum, the Emotional Balance facial for younger people with problem skin. It promises to regulate sebum production and leave your skin looking brighter and less angry.
Men and mums-to-be are not neglected, and neither are brides, bridesmaids and mothers of brides, who can all have custom packages designed to make them look and feel their best. Finishing touches include Jessica manicures and pedicures, St Tropez spray tanning, waxing, tints and electrolysis.
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
That there was no pool! I wouldn't have packed my swimming costume.
If you book for a spa day, you will get a robe, but you'll need to get dressed again to go upstairs for lunch in the restaurant.
If you're staying, ask for a room with a sea view; the alternative view is the car park.
Any special features?
The building itself is the star, but you could love or hate the modernist take. Luckily, the friendliness of the staff adds warmth.
Who do you think would like it?
Locals will enjoy the pamper days. Hotel guests will welcome the health and beauty treatments on offer.
People with disabilities or mobility problems will love the fact that spa is accessible and the treatment couches come right down to the ground so you can get onto them easily.
Why did you give the spa this rating?
We gave the spa at the Midland Hotel 3 bubbles because it is a very nice treatment rooms, and does what it does well, but if you're looking for the full spa experience with robes and floaty pools, you need to look elsewhere. Jane and her staff have done their best to make the environment welcoming, and offer treatments that suit local tastes and budgets, so the spa will find its fans.
See more on how we rate the spas.
Would you go again?
Yes, I certainly would. I loved the seaside-chic hotel, thought the staff were very helpful, enjoyed the room and the breakfast, actually liked being in Morecambe and walking round the town. Just not a spa destination in its own right quite yet.
We visited the spa at the Midland Hotel in November 2008
See also:
* Contact Details for Midland Spa
* Massage
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