Celtic Manor, The Usk Valley - 5 bubbles

Single Spy and Spouse high-tailed it down the M4 at the invitation of Celtic Manor and discovered the impressive Forum Spa. The extensive facilities and treatments allows for some glorious me-time even in a family holiday. Some spa facilities are shared with the health club, but there is a separate space for relaxing and spa-ing. And there's mud. In a twinkly chamber. Sadly, no gladiators.


Was it easy to book?

First impressions?

How did they welcome you?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

How did you feel afterwards?

What happens afterwards?

Was it worth it?

What else could you have?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

Was it easy to book?

Yes, and you get a real taster for what to expect on their website, which offers you virtual tours of the spa, the Rasul chamber and some of the treatment rooms.



First impressions?

As we approached the exit from the M4, we noticed a huge building perched on the hillside above us. I wondered what on earth it was. Turned out to be where we were heading: the Celtic Manor resort is huge. As well as the main hotel, there are two golf courses, each with their own clubhouse, and a conference and meeting centre.



How did they welcome you?

By parking the car and whisking our bags up to our room. Perfect!


We checked in to our room at the desk in the large atrium at the centre of the hotel; this has wooden Welsh dragons curled round pillars and a sunken area of seating at their feet.


We took the elevator up to our room, which was fairly standard hotel issue, with a TV, bed with a multi-coloured counterpane, impressive view of the M4, and tea and coffee-making equipment. Lots of lovely Elemis products in the bathroom and free internet connection to check emails. We barely had time to make a cup of tea and whizz a quick note back to Spa HQ before it was time to meet some mud.



What happens next?

Spouse and Self went down to The Forum spa. To the right as you get out of the lift is a main reception desk; this is where you check in if you're a hotel guest or health-club member and using the gym or the pool. To the left, there is a separate spa reception through some doors. If you're visiting for the day, you reach the spa through the main hotel lobby and then go down either via the lift or some stairs.


We went through the spa doors and a member of staff greeted us politely and efficiently in the large, light and bright reception area. He issued Spouse and Self with white robes and slippers and buzzed us through to the changing rooms.


The changing rooms: These are shared with the swimming pool and health-club guests. There is a large locker area, plus a separate area containing the loos, showers, and a steam room, sauna, cold plunge pool and large Jacuzzi-style bath. The walls have impressive murals, showing Roman maidens disporting themselves carrying jugs of water about etc. The name of the spa began to make sense -- The Forum -- Roman? I got quite optimistic about the imminent appearance of gladiators.


The pool: There is a large and light pool area, and the windows look out onto gardens, which gives the place a lovely atmosphere. The main pool is long enough for a decent swim but also has seated side areas with water jets. Next to it is a separate small children's pool and a huge bubbly spa bath. You could get 50 people in there.


What adds to the lovely atmosphere is the ceiling above the pool; the ceiling is domed and painted with a blue, cloudy sky. You can swim on your back and pretend you are outside without any disadvantage of actually being rained on.


As the pool is also part of the health club, there aren't stacks of towels in the changing rooms or at the pool sides. But if you ask at spa reception, they provide you with a fresh towel whenever you need one.


There are loungers around the sides of the pool, so you can take your dip then relax; the ones to go for are the ones on either side of the spa bath as they have the best view of the gardens. If the weather is clement, you can also disport yourself on loungers outside in the gardens (carrying jugs of water and wearing a toga optional).


There's also another sauna at the side of the pool, which is fairly large and nicely hot, so you can do your warming up and cooling down here, too.


The gym: This is a good size with windows across one wall so quite bright. The machines are all top-notch and there's a wide range, as well as free weights and Swiss ball. Water is available and the staff friendly and approachable.


When we were ready for our treatments, we reported to spa reception. A member of staff gave us our health consultation forms and guided us over to a small relaxation area where we could fill them in. She also offered us water, which is always welcome. There's a contender for the world's smallest balcony here, too, but even if you don't manage to squeeze onto it, you can sit in your chair, sip your water, eat a green apple, and enjoy the view of the gardens (and a bit of the M4).


When it was time for our treatment, a therapist came and took us through to the Rasul room.



Which treatments did you have?

Spouse and Myself had the Rasul ritual (£85 for 1 hour and 50 minutes). I was really looking forward to a little ritual as the opportunity to slather my best beloved in mud on a Monday afternoon doesn't come around too often. I also had a Payot facial -- a Royal chocolate cocoon.



What were the treatments like?

The Rasul ritual was fun. Our therapist took us into the rasul room, where there is a changing area. Here you leave your robes and slippers, then you sit yourself down in the rasul chamber. This is stylish: fitted with blue, turquoise and cream ceramics, porcelain seats, a central steam column and a star-studded domed ceiling. The therapist read out from a small sheet what we should anticipate in the treatment: mud, basically, then heat, and tropical rain. "When the rain ends, that means the treatment is over," she explained.


She showed us the grey slate on which the various-coloured muds were presented: one for the body (black) one for the face (a sort of beige) and one for the hair (a sort of grey). Satisfied that we knew which mud was which, she seemed to have last-minute nerves. "You're not allergic to any shellfish or iodine, are you?" I was little alarmed as to when oysters might insinuate their way into this treatment. "It's just that the muds are from the Dead Sea," the therapist continued. "And you might have an allergy."


Reassuring her that we had no crustacean allergies, we looked forward to the treatment actually beginning. But she had further thoughts of doom. "Do either of you have psoriasis?" she said. "Or open sores?" As we were both sitting in front of her in our swimming costumes, sporting remarkably healthy skin and free of wounds, the question hardly seemed to need answering. But we answered anyway, in the negative.


Satisfied that all possible contra-indications had been covered, the therapist then allowed the treatment to begin. "It'll take a few moments after I've closed the door," she said, "because it has to boot up."


Boot up? I thought we were having an ancient Moroccan bathing ritual. Since when did ancient Moroccan bathing rituals have to boot up?


But boot up of course they have to in today's computer-controlled Rasul age. Sure enough, after a few moments, the computer ordered the steam to begin and we began to warm up. We slathered the muds over one another as directed, sat in the emerging steam, and listened to some rather out-of-place English piano music swelling up out of the twinkly-starred chamber roof. I thought some subtle Moroccan rhythms might be more in keeping. But we enjoyed the steamy heat, and the Spa Find muds, and the tropical rain seemed to arrive too soon. "Do we really have to go?" said Spouse. "When the rain ends, that means the treatment is over," I reminded.


We stood in the warm rain and also used the showers but, when we towelled dry, we were surprised to see how much mud was still left on us -- or, rather, was now on the towels. I know my skin absorbed it, as I was still finding blackness coming out of my pores two days later. And if my skin absorbed it, it must have been doing me good!


My Payot facial was carried out by a great ambassador for the brand, my therapist, Kathryn. This was a relaxing and soothing facial, as it involved a lot of neck massage, which was perfect for me as that's the area of my body that gets the most tense. Kathryn cleansed, exfoliated, moisturised and left my skin looking and feeling soft and smooth. Payot was a product house new to me and, while the ingredients may have been doing my skin wonders, they aren't highly scented. This may score highly in some people's spa books but, for me, one of the pleasures of a spa treatment is a sensual array of aromas that I can't easily recreate at home. Especially if, as advertised, the ingredients involve chocolate. Kathryn was an excellent therapist; I enjoyed the treatment, and would happily have Kathryn pay me attention again, but Payot isn't a brand I'll be searching for in my next spa trip.



How did you feel afterwards?

After the rasul: perked up. After the facial: calmed down.



What happens afterwards?

We went into the relaxation room, a small room with just four loungers, green apples in a bowl, and some water in a jug.


Later that evening, we went for dinner in Rafters, the golf clubhouse newly built for when Celtic Manor hosts the 2010 Ryder Cup. A driver had to take us there in a car, as it is a little far to walk, but this gave us an opportunity to marvel at the green views, the setting sun, and the challenging new golf course.


The modern building is certainly impressive, and the menu equally so. We started with butternut squash and amaretto soup, munched our way through wild boar and apricot sausages, and finished with a saffron and gooseberry crème brulée. Though you could have had a Twenty Ten buck rarebit for your final course -- cheese on toast with a poached egg -- if you could find the room. You get not only a choice of bread, but of butters, too. The staff were attentive throughout, the views across the golf course uplifting, and we enjoyed the evening enormously.


Before the driver took us back to the main hotel, the very enthusiastic Rafters manager treated us to a tour of the changing rooms. I can give a sneak-peek report that the golfers of 2010 will enjoy a rather luxurious changing experience, and a whole range of Elemis products after their hard day on the fairway.



Was it worth it?

Yes. A Bronze spa day includes a choice of two treatments, a light lunch and use of facilities for £95. This compares very favourably to other spa days you could have in the area. Some individual treatments are a little pricey, but booking a spa day and making the most of the many facilities on offer at the Forum Spa proves good value for money.



What else could you have?

A wide range of other treatments is also available. Choose from Clarins, Elemis, Payot or La Thérapie facials and body treatments. Signature treatments include Water Therapy and a Mineral Scalp treatment with Dry Floatation.


The facilities are so good that it's worth putting by enough time to enjoy them. Use the pool, sauna and steam areas before your treatments rather than afterwards so that you don't wash off all the products.



What do you wish you'd known before you went?

That you need a pound coin for your locker in the health club.


The rooms at Celtic Manor have a great view of either the M4 or the golf course. If you're staying, ask for a view of the golf course as it will be much quieter.



Any special features?

The rasul is quite special, as there aren't many places in Wales where you can slather yourself with mud under some twinkly stars indoors.



Who do you think would like it?

Anyone who is looking for a good value spa day. Anyone looking for a bit of me-time away from the family, while the family are not too far away. Golfers, obviously.



Why did you give the spa this rating?

We think Celtic Manor clings onto the 5 bubbles we gave it on our previous visit -- just. The hotel offers a lot of spa facilities and the allocated time for adults-only swimming in the middle of the day is a fantastic idea; it allows some peaceful laps in a spa day -- if only they would actually keep the children out. There are few spa-goers I know who feel that their day of drifting is enhanced by a small boy dive-bombing them from a water feature, which is what we experienced.


But the facilities are extensive enough to keep you happily engaged on a spa day; the pool offers a great swimming atmosphere, the treatments are delivered professionally, and you can make the most of the gardens in sunny weather. This is a place you can really relax, and that's what spa-ing is all about.


See more on how we rate the spas



Would you go again?

Yes, I would. Celtic Manor comes into its own as a family hotel, but you can time your spa treatments and children's swim times so they don't coincide and you can all come home happy. If you're here with a friend for a spa day at The Forum, the mix of facilities and treatments gives good value for money, despite the non-appearance of any Roman-style henchmen.


We visited Celtic Manor in July 2008


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See also:

* Contact Details for Celtic Manor Resort

* Our Spa Spies review Elemis products

* Rasuls, hammams and serails