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Scotsman Hotel (Scotsman Spa), Edinburgh - 4 bubbles
The Scotsman Spa and Health Club felt more health club than spa to Single Spy. The Thalgo treatments are excellent, but the spa struggles to establish its own identity as a space for relaxation within the busy atmosphere of the gym and pool. A great place to go to combine an active day with a spa treat.
First impressions?
How did they welcome you?
What happens next?
Which treatments did you have?
What were the treatments like?
How did you feel afterwards?
What happens afterwards?
Was it worth it?
What else could you have?
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
Any special features?
Why did you give the spa this rating?
Would you go again?
First impressions?
Your first impression of the hotel cannot fail to be impressive. The Scotsman hotel is a landmark historic building, home for a hundred years to The Scotsman newspaper, and occupying a commanding position in central Edinburgh on North Bridge.
If you're staying in the hotel, the entrance is actually on North Bridge. You then reach the spa via an awe-inspiring series of lifts or staircases and corridors. If you're going straight to the spa or health club, the entrance is on Market Street, which runs underneath North Bridge. This takes you up a very modernist metal staircase to the club reception.
How did they welcome you?
By coming outside to meet me, which was rather grand. Before I blinked, I'd been booked in for dinner, my suitcase was in my room, and I myself was going on a quick tour of the spa. The tour was helpful, but then I had to return to my room because I was eager to see what it was like.
I loved my room! It had more wood panelling than you'd get in many stately homes. Once an editor's office, it has been refurbished to keep some of the historic elements alongside the modern must-haves, such as a marble bathroom. The TV was in a huge dark-wood wardrobe that must have belonged to Bluebeard; the broadband access was via a wooden desk... you get the picture. I thought the room had both character and comfort, as well as a picturesque view of Waverley Station and Princes Street. I had to have a cup of Earl Grey and just look at the view for a while. I also checked the pool opening times in the hotel directory, and was reminded that I was in Scotland when I saw that there was an entry under K for Kilt hire.
What happens next?
When I had retrieved my swimsuit and gym stuff, I tested my memory on how to get to the spa. There aren't many places where you reach the spa via an imposing marble staircase, but The Scotsman is one. (In newspaper days, only the most exalted staff were allowed to walk upon the marble treads and marvel at the stained glass windows. I felt duly exalted.)
Along with my room key, I'd also been given an electronic card to get through the security door between the hotel and the spa. Once I got this in at the right angle, it worked. You can go down to the spa in the bathrobe provided in your room, and many people do, but, for me, because of the (otherwise fabulous) position of my room, this would have meant parading across reception attired in my bathing wear: a pleasure I forewent.
Once I'd actually gone through the door, up in the little lift (complete with porthole design), I arrived in the health club reception. This is an open-plan, modern space: exposed pipes, grey-slate, big-screen TV showing news, and glimpses of the pool through a frosted glass wall. This area has two levels: the upper one a mezzanine with wicker tables for eating and drinking. Up another floor is the gym, the studio, and the entrance to the spa. The reception area was functional and light, even though it did not have any external windows.
I went to the reception desk and explained that I was staying in the hotel and that a) I wanted to gym and then swim, and b) I had lost the pound coin I'd tucked away en route between the room, the marble staircase and the lift.
Luckily, none of this was a problem. The health club receptionist asked me to sign in, gave me a token for the locker, and showed me where to get changed.
The changing rooms felt very health club. There are some large lockers to hang coats in, quite basic but fairly clean showers, a spinner for your wet costume and plastic bags to carry it home in. There are some soft touches of moisturiser in brackets on the wall, as well as hair dryers and straighteners. A wall TV was showing news and sport, but on almost mute. There is also a changing facility for anyone who is disabled.
I changed and went through to the large and well-equipped gym. I had to ask where the drinking water was as I couldn't see it, and a member of staff pointed out the metal basin and fountain in a corner. Fine.
Many of the machines have their own built-in screens, and there are also free-weights areas and mats. Loud music was playing, and the gym had a very busy atmosphere.
I did 30 minutes cycling, which would have been more peaceful had not another gym bunny decided to get on the cycle right next to me and have a loud conversation with a member of staff. I might have done some free weights but wimped out as there were lots of people looking very macho in the area.
After my workout, I went back to the changing rooms to don my swimsuit. You reach the pool via a dedicated staircase from the changing rooms. I had skimped on my hand-luggage-only packing strategy with BA and decided not to bring my flip-flops. I regretted it. I found the cream-tiled staircase down to the pool quite slippy in bare feet. It was late in the day, and the steps could also have done with a sweep clean.
The pool itself is very dramatic: stainless steel set in slate, the first of its kind in Scotland. There is a dark glass wall on one side, and the whole area is dimly lit, perhaps too dimly lit. I noticed people on the five loungers next to the pool peering through the gloom trying to make out the words of their magazines. It was so dark, I didn't even notice the hooks to hang my towel on, but placed it on a clear Perspex chair next to the pool.
I had a pleasant swim, the peace broken only by a dull boom, every so often, which I eventually figured out was people dropping weights in the gym, directly above.
There are restricted times when children can swim, but this rule was not enforced.
At the end of the pool area, there was a tropicarium (a dark and sweet-smelling warm room), an Arctic shower, a Tropical shower, a small wooden sauna (nicely hot), a Jacuzzi, and a large tiled steam room. The showers were interesting: You stand in circular steel grid and jets of water of slightly different temperatures spray at every level of your body. Refreshing.
That evening, I met a friend for dinner in the Scotsman's North Bridge Brasserie. This was once the newspaper's reception room and boasts more marble. The food was fresh and delicious, with generous portions of asparagus starters and lamb mains.
The next morning, I went back to the spa for my treatment. The smiley receptionist gave me a mercifully short questionnaire to fill in. I wasn't pregnant, sensitive or allergic. Job done.
Which treatments did you have?
I had the Scotsman Spa Signature treatment called the Top to Toe. This included a Hydrate and feel good facial (£32 for 25 minutes) and an Ocean memory marine sensation (£115 for 100 minutes). Both treatments use Thalgo products, which are new at the spa.
What were the treatments like?
Excellent. Rachel, the spa manager, took me over the I'm a Celebrity-style bridge over the pool, past someone having a manicure, and into a dimly lit treatment room.
The facial used cleansers, exfoliation, and a cool algae mask that was both refreshing and felt like it was doing my skin much good.
The Ocean memory marine sensation was also excellent. Rachel placed demineralising sea salts and algae petals onto my body, using a warmed compress to ease tensions. She also applied a bubble mousse to my back, neck and shoulders, and gave me a pressure-point foot massage before finishing with stretching. The masssage part of the treatment was a combination of gentle strokes, some deep-tissue massage, and was all profoundly relaxing. I don't know if it really "replicated the movements of the sea", but I certainly drifted off on waves of pleasure. Rachel made sure I was comfortable at all times, used the heated treatment bed when I got a little cold, and was very knowledgeable about the Thalgo products.
I didn't want it to end.
How did you feel afterwards?
My skin felt soft, and my neck and shoulders were a lot looser.
What happens afterwards?
Rachel allowed me some time to regain my senses, then took me to the relaxation room and brought me some green tea. I lay back on a lounger and leafed through some magazines, but then felt energised enough to consider another swim and steam before leaving.
I had a swim, but the steam room was out of order. Never mind, I showered and dressed, and went back to the mezzanine tables and chairs to order some late lunch.
This was an odd place to sit and eat. You're right by the stairs up the gym, so there is a constant stream of people passing through, and there was a business meeting of some sort going on at the table next to mine. I'm not sure how comfortable I would have felt sitting in my robe with all this activity around. Also, there was some floaty spa music playing, but it was competing directly with the loud beats of the techno-crunch from the gym, so each ear was getting a different aural experience. It was as if this place didn't know what it really wanted to be.
The food on offer includes paninis, sandwiches and salads and, before 10am, a bowl of hot porridge. As well as fruit juices, teas and coffees, you can also order beer and wine.
I also tried the massage chair, tucked behind a screen. I summoned up courage to do so when the business meeting was over. I am glad I did, as it delivered a very strong and pleasant massage sensation, and glad I waited, too, as it did rather emphasise my wobbly bits.
Was it worth it?
Yes, it was. Use of the health club is free to guests staying at The Scotsman and to anyone who spends over £50 on spa treatments. If you don't have a spa treatment, a day pass is £25. If you're having a treatment, use of the club is £15. The facilities are well worth paying a bit extra for.
What else could you have?
A wide range of Thalgo treatments, including facials, massages and wraps. There is also a good selection of "yummy mummy" treatments for pregnant women, using Mama Mio products. You can have manicures, pedicures, waxing and tanning, and also Traditional Chinese medicine treatments, such as acupuncture and cupping.
What do you wish you'd known before you went?
You might want to ask for two towels rather than the standard-issue one, as you probably want one after your swim, and another after the shower.
Any special features?
A 16-metre stainless steel pool set in slate is a pretty special feature.
The bedrooms also feature a "privacy hatch". If someone is bringing you breakfast, for example, they can leave it in the hatch, so you don't have to face anyone with your "just got out of bed" hair. The hotel also has a private cinema, too.
Why did you give the spa this rating?
We gave the Scotsman Spa 4 bubbles, just. The hotel deserves its 5-star status. The mix of the old wood and marble and edgy modern stainless steel works well. The spa felt like it was struggling to establish its identity within the health club. The health-club atmosphere dominates, and this means the spa suffers. The spa could do with its own reception area where you can fill in consultation forms and start to feel like you were leaving the real world behind.
The spa also fights for space because the pool is a hotel pool, and children's swimming times are generous. It has a busy feel to it. Similarly, the changing rooms are functional rather than luxurious, as they would be, as they primarily serve the health club.
My treatments were excellent, and I thoroughly enjoyed them. The staff were all friendly and helpful. If the spa could just carve a little more space for itself, it would feel more like its own world of relaxation, rather than a little sister.
See more on how we rate the spas
Would you go again?
I would if I was looking to combine a spa treatment with a health-club day.
We visited the Scotsman Hotel in July 2009
Like the sound of this? You're in luck.
Follow this link to book a special spa offer at The Scotsman Hotel with our partners lastminute.com
* Details of the Scotsman Hotel
* What's the difference between a health spa and a health farm?
* I am disabled. Are there any spas that can accommodate me?* Can I buy the products my therapist used? |
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