Review of Cliveden (The Pavilion Spa), Taplow

Cliveden (The Pavilion Spa), Taplow

There aren't many spas that can claim to have changed the face of British politics, but Cliveden is one. We were invited to this most luxurious of country house hotels to sample the Pavilion Spa in the famous walled garden. Single Spy had a fantastic time and a fantastic Carita facial.

First impressions?

How did they welcome you?

What happens next?

Which treatments did you have?

What were the treatments like?

How did you feel afterwards?

Long-term effects

Was it worth it?

What else could you have?

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

Any special features?

Who do you think would like it?

Why did you give the spa this rating?

Would you go again?

First impressions?

You'd have to have a heart of stone for that heart not to flutter a little as you catch your first sight of the country house that is Cliveden. Built on cliffs above the River Thames, approached through National Trust gardens and along a quarter-mile-long drive, the classic Italian style of the house is both imposing and elegant. (There has been a house on the site since 1666, but previous incarnations burned down, and the Cliveden that you see was built in 1851 by the architect Charles Barry, whose most famous building is perhaps the Clock Tower of the Palace of Westminster which houses Big Ben.)

Cliveden has always had a reputation for high living and hard partying. If you know its history, that may be in your mind as you approach. But of course, we were there not to party but to spa.

How did they welcome you?

With valet parking. I handed over my car key and the next thing we knew, one of the myriad of uniformed footmen had placed our cases in our room. We had a nice cup of tea in the Great Hall while they found our check-in reservation, and noted several suits of armour, wood panelling, and grand floral decorations that matched the scale of the place. There's also a large fireplace, where they still have a real fire in the winter months.

The Hall was busy with people taking tea - the full sandwiches, cakes and scones experience. In 1893, Cliveden became the home of the Astor family. Nancy Astor was the first woman Member of Parliament to take her seat, and there is a striking portrait of her in the Great Hall - she is like an advert for a firming spa treatment if ever I saw one.

What happens next?

We checked out our room with its sweeping view of the parterre gardens. All the 38 house rooms are named after someone with a connection to the hotel, so you might find yourself staying in Kipling, or Buckingham... The room was large, light and spacious. The wardrobe was so big, someone who is only five-foot tall (me) might have trouble hanging up their coat (this gives you a sense of the scale of the place). There was a separate dressing area and bathroom with robes, slippers, plenty of fluffy white towels and Floris products - soap, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion. I was a little disappointed with these, to be honest - some of the other von Essen hotels (the group to which Cliveden belongs, along with New Park Manor, Dalhousie Castle and others) provide Numbers products (that are, in fact, exclusive to the Von Essen hotels) and they smell spa-gorgeous and feel spa-gorgeous.

But almost making up for this was the fact that there was a teddy on the bed - a bed the size of a small prairie, so plenty of room for us both to sleep without kicking the other. Plus, the TV was charmingly hidden in a little cabinet with curtains. Still and sparkling TyNant water sat on top. There are no tea or coffee making facilities - this is the sort of country house hotel where you call down if you want a hot beverage.

We later looked round several of the rooms and all are individually decorated, with antique furniture and oil paintings, and even the smallest is spacious. What you pay a premium for is a room with a view - but what a view. You could open your curtains and feel transported back a century or two.

I called the spa to check the time of my treatment the next day - all confirmed very efficiently - then we decided to sample the pools.

The spa The Pavilion Spa is in a separate building to the main hotel. You walk across the car park and into the walled garden. You could wander across to it in the provided robe, but in March, to be honest, we would have felt a little self-conscious. The walled garden has a very peaceful and tranquil atmosphere - at least when we were there. It may not be quite so tranquil in the summer and it certainly wasn't in the 1960s, for it was here that Stephen Ward and Christine Keeler first met when they triggered the infamous Profumo scandal.

The outdoor pool is heated so you can have a swim at any time of year, and there are two Canadian hot tubs as well.

Into the spa. Reception is at a small desk to the left - sign in and the changing rooms are on the right. The changing rooms are in an L-shape with lockers and a towel-drop in the first bit, then round to the changing area, with blue robes in every cubicle, two showers, and a sauna - small but hot. Plenty of shampoo, conditioner, body lotion and hairdryers available for afterwards.

We went for a swim in the main pool - 18 metres and ozone treated, so offering plenty of space for a good swim. The windowed wall gives natural light and there are ample loungers for, well, lounging about on. But we braved the chilly walk across the lawn and into the outdoor pool. There is something fabulous about swimming outside in the cold weather, not least of which is the reward afterwards of the outdoor Canadian hot tubs. The tubs really are hot and very bubbly.

We also tried the Jacuzzi, which was a little disappointing - not overwhelmingly hot and some of the jets not working. It was all clean, but it was tired, and in need of refurbishment.

The treatment rooms are in two separate areas - at the far end of the pool there are rooms with shower facilities for wraps and muds, and lighter, sunnier rooms by Reception for manicures and massages.

The spa staff are young, friendly and happy to help when asked. The cleaning service was zealous - my partner emerged from his swim to find that someone had already tidied away his robe, with his locker key still in it.

The food Even in the space of 24 hours, we managed to have three meals: tea, dinner and breakfast. Dinner was delicious - venison, beef, and carrots in a cage formation. Breakfast in the Terrace Dining Room comes complete with a buffet wide enough to satisfy every morning whim, including the full English, but you can also choose healthier options of porridge and poached eggs. On Tuesdays to Saturdays, foodies could eat in the Michelin-stared Waldo's restaurant, too.

In the spa, there is a conservatory where you can have healthy smoothies and snacks, and during the summer months you can have these served to you at the poolside.

Which treatments did you have?

I had a Carita Pro Lifting facial, Carita's signature treatment. It promises an instant face-lifing effect using massage, plant-based skincare products and electric current. As an anti-ageing facial, it's reputed to be among the best. At £110 for 85 minutes, it ought to be.

What were the treatments like?

Fabulous! It is a mark of great confidence in a treatment when your therapist shows you your face in a mirror halfway through and asks if you can see a difference between the "done" side of your face and the other. Because I could!

The treatment began with cleansing and a rather messy exfoliation using a strong-smelling mixture of sunflower seeds, thyme and cloves. Once this was cleared away, I enjoyed an eye mask and mouth mask while my therapist gave me a hand and arm massage and a foot massage. I hadn't really been expecting feet to be involved as part of a facial, so make sure your pinkies are in perfect order, spa fans. The electric current is a strange sensation - it makes you see flashing light in your eyes - but not at all uncomfortable.

I enjoyed the treatment partly because my therapist was very confident, knew what she was doing, and was confident about the results she could achieve.

How did you feel afterwards?

My skin was definitely tighter, lifted, and the dark shadows under my eyes had disappeared. It felt like nothing short of a miracle.

Long-term effects

I was told that effects of the Carita facial would last six or seven days, but I don't think they quite made it to the end of a week. The effects of remembering my stay will last a lifetime.

Was it worth it?

In the spa, individual treatments are reasonably priced. The day-spa packages are relatively expensive, we felt, for the facilities on offer. If you combine the spa with a stay, you're going to pay more than you would at many hotels, but it is on a par with the best country house hotels. So while Cliveden is an expensive place to stay, you get what you pay for. The view of the parterre garden from our room waking up in the morning is something I will always remember, and the sybaritic pleasure of sitting in the hot tubs in the walled garden was priceless.

What else could you have?

The Pavilion Spa at Cliveden offers a wide range of treatments by Carita, Decleor and Phytomer (the latter brand being particularly appealing to men). They have a dry float bed, too, which would make a soothing pre- or post-massage relax. Wraps include oil of evening primrose and honey and mango, which both sound delicious, but perhaps not as delicious as the remineralising gold wrap. You can choose from massages, facials - including Phytomer marine mud facials that have been designed exclusively for Cliveden - and holistic treatments such as Reiki and reflexology. There are treatments specifically for men, manicures, pedicures, tanning treatments, beauty treatments... You could happily treatment hop for a week. Cliveden also offers various spa days, although these are on the pricy side, at around £295.

There's also a small gym, and exercise studio, and indoor and outdoor tennis courts, as well as the extensive possibilities of walks in the grounds, so you can be active during your stay, too.

What do you wish you'd known before you went?

That we should stay two nights instead of one. By the time we had settled into the Cliveden vibe, with a walk in the gardens, it was time to go. Top tip: your room may not be ready till 3pm, but arrive earlier to walk round the 376 acres of woodland, gardens and down to the river. You can also go on a champagne cruise along the Thames before dinner, which, dare I say, is probably something you don't often get the opportunity to do at home.

Any special features?

The hot tubs in the walled garden are really hot and fun. The tubs and outdoor pool are open throughout the year. Plus being able to combine your spa experiences with woodland walks.

Who do you think would like it?

Everyone who could afford it.

Cliveden may be of particular interest for brides. The spa offers pre-wedding and wedding day treatments for the bride and groom, and the west terrace provides a stunning backdrop for a reception. The golden glory of the French dining room - the panelling was transported from Madame de Pompadour's hunting lodge - would impress your wedding guests, too.

Why did you give the spa this rating?

We gave the spa at Cliveden 4 bubbles because it is in need of refurbishment in some key areas, and we understand that this may be planned. The hotel is worth many stars, but the spa needs some investment to bring it to the same state of unparalleled luxury.

See more on how we rate the spas