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Labels and chemicals: what's in your face-cream?
We're all aware these days that there are ingredients we'd prefer to avoid in beauty products. Most ingredients are now, or have been in the past, tested on animals. Plus, you've probably seen the occasional alarming magazine headline about carcinogenic face creams and a toothpaste that will bring you out in hives...
But beyond knowing that the bogey-man may be lurking in your T-zone clay mask without your knowledge:
* What do the labels mean?
* How do you know which chemicals to avoid?
* Why should you avoid them?
* Which brands and products should you choose?
* We've set out to answer as many of these questions as we can.
Labels: What do they all mean?
We've all scooched down in the bath and scanned the back of a shampoo bottle. How often does the long list of chemicals start with the word "Agua"? Hmmm, if they've even written "water" in Latin, what chance do you have of understanding all the rest?
The main point is that there is not much concrete scientific evidence about any of the "buzz" chemicals people worry about, only "links to", "implicated in" and "may cause".
If you want to be as natural as possible:
* Choose natural products that pride themselves on their organic content, which are dermatologically - rather than animal - tested, and from companies who make an ethical, environmental commitment.
* Bear in mind that there's a reason that some chemicals have been used in the first place, often as preservatives. If you don't want to keep your moisturiser in the fridge and watch it go off in a few weeks if you don't use it, then perhaps downsize your best intentions.
We've listed some of the most common chemicals below.
Parabens
Also known as ethyl paraben, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and butyl paraben.
What are they used for? Parabens are a group of chemicals found in all kinds of beauty and cleaning products - including baby products - from shampoos to shaving gels to deodorants.
Why are they used? They are effective and cheap preservatives.
What's bad about them? Linked to breast cancer, tested on animals. Can aggravate existing skin allergies and irritate normal skin, too.
Verdict: Avoid if you can, particularly if you are pregnant.
Sodium Laureth Sulphate
Also known as Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES); Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and Ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS).
What is it used for? Cleaners, detergents, soaps, shampoos, toothpastes, bubble bath.
Why is it used? Because it's cheap, and it foams up well. People like bubbles and froth!
What's bad about it? Can irritate your skin and is thought to give some people mouth ulcers; also thought to be carcinogenic.
Verdict: Avoid if you can, particularly if you are pregnant.
Petroleum / Mineral oil
What are they used for? Petroleum is used for fuel, and is also the raw material for many other chemical products, including fertilisers, lubricants and solvents.
Why are they used? Makes a smooth paste base for cosmetic and beauty products.
What's bad about them? Oils are essentially sealants. Ever seen oil floating on water? That's what mineral oil does to your skin. Oil sits on top of it and stops it from breathing.
Verdict: You may want to swap your petroleum-based for an alternative.
Collagen
What is it? An insoluble animal protein found in connective tissue; in cosmetic products, it's usually made up from ground-up chicken's feet and beaks. (It's probably more expensive and ethically troublesome to harvest it from human beings.)
What is it used for? Face creams, masks, filler creams, lip injections.
Why is it used? Because it is an animal product found naturally in your body; as it degrades in your skin, you get wrinkles.
What's bad about them? Didn't you read the first bit? It's made of chicken's feet and beaks! Oh, and it isn't great at letting your skin breathe.
Verdict: Use it advisedly.
AHAs
Also known as Alpha Hydroxy Acid; Glycolic acid; Lactic acid; Citric acid; Tartaric acid; Malic acid.
What is it? AHAs are naturally occurring carboxylic acids (so now you know).
What are they used for Anti-ageing creams, moisturisers, chemical peels.
What's bad about them? They're proven to be effective in improving the look and feel of your skin UNLESS your skin takes against them, in which case they can cause minor skin inflammation and flaking. Chemical peels can cause blisters or burning, although this shouldn't last. AHAs can make your skin sensitive to the sun and light in the short term.
Verdict: Use with care.
How about Hyaluronic acid? Well, that's a different story...
See also:
* How do I avoid products that have been tested on animals?
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